Blog

Summary

Since I’ve been writing this blog Ive been able to gain a lot of understanding in so many different sources, Many of which I’ve never came across and many of which Ive never thought to research. The most challenging post was the Advertisement semiotic analysis, this is because I took so much more interest in the other blog posts. It also allowed me to research up different advertisement that I didn’t really think to much of then to see all the different meanings of which each advert meant and who they were targeting. And throughout my blog I don’t believe I would anything I’ve done because I’m proud of what I’ve accomplished.

word count 112

 

Semiotic Analysis

Screen Shot 2017-04-07 at 11.36.32.png

Gucci/Tom Ford Semiotic Analysis

Tom Ford made a very short statement at Gucci on Saturday. American Ford, who is one of only a handful of designers who has the power to change the course of fashion history with one stroke, decreed that the miniest of micro skirts will be massive news for spring/summer 2003. And with that, it’s hoped he wiped all memory of the sales slump his parent company announced just two days before. For the last three seasons, Ford has reserved his trend-setting pieces for his new Yves Saint Laurent ready-to-wear collection. It may be that he has held a few back for YSL Rive Gauche, which he shows in Paris on October 7, this season, too. But Gucci had its fair share for spring: going against the once popular hemlines-rise-with-share-prices theory, Ford presented a highly sensual collection of off-the-shoulder blousons and jersey tops in soft pastels and black, bottom-grazing bustier dresses and slippery embroidered kimonos and stretch silk cheongsams, accessorised by sexy, silver peep-toe slingbacks, a deep tan and serious bed-hair. With its raw sex appeal and unapologetic glamour, it was a shot of Eighties optimism – and one we could all do with right now.Screen Shot 2017-04-07 at 11.33.29.png

Figure 1: Carmen Kass tomford/gucci kimono 2003

Ford’s obsession now is integrating fine workmanship into abbreviated silhouettes. He took the idea of a kimono and portrayed it first as a simple silk beach cover-up, then as an elegant formfitting dress, painstakingly made from hand-painted strips of silk. He brought couture finesse to racer-back feathered dresses with the merest flip of a skirt. And with lightest touch, he wove white and rose gold into fragile ribbons to tie around wrists—the most modern-looking jewellery in Milan. When Carmen Kass closed the show in a dress made entirely of the same precious ribbon, it was a confident statement in the power of glamour. And fashion needs that.

Reichert would say “the use of sexual appeals in advertising has become the norm for such products as cosmetics, fashion accessories, and perfume and any number of other women’s magazines replete with sexually charged advertisements” and therefore it could be seen as a surprise that this advertisement faced such high cristism. However it also could be said that the  nature of the advertisement cannot be told, as the model is against the wall it could be considered rape as just her body being in shot does not reveal anything else.Screen Shot 2017-04-07 at 11.53.58.png

Figure 2: Current Gucci jacket

The bomber jacket is also a material which was used a lot in the 90’s and easy 20’s due to the new romantic fashion craze. The model in the kimono is show femininity with the heels and having the kimono open with her breast out, how ever it could be noted that the other models might be seen as more masculine by wearing the bomber jacket, trousers. The bomber jacket could been seen as similar to those sold by companies now with the satin material and embroidered back.

Something else published in Vogue article called “Best Bomber Jackets to Buy Now”. When looking on the fashion journal; Collezioni’s article about the Spring 2016 Gucci show I found that there are many different prints similar to the one on the kimono/bomber.

Screen Shot 2017-04-07 at 12.08.53.pngFigure 3: Gucci s/s 2016

References 

http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2003-ready-to-wear/gucci/

PITHERS, E. (2016)10 Best Bomber Jackets: Buy Now [Online] Vogue Online, Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/best-bomber-jacket-womens

Accessed: 02/03/17

(2012) Runway of Spring/Summer 2003 show[Online] ELLE Online, Available at:http://www.elle.com/runway/spring-2003-rtw/g4615/gucci-46384/?slide=26

Nomura, Shojiro; Ema, Tsutomu (2006)Japanese kimono designs. New York, USA .: Dover.

Reichert, T (2011) The naked truth: revealing the affinity for graphic sexual appeals in advertising. Journal of advertising research Volume: 51 Issue: 2

Accessed: 02/03/17

Image References 

Figure 1: Carmen Kass tomford/gucci kimono 2003

Available:http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2003-ready-to-wear/gucci/

Accessed: 02/03/17

Figure 2: Current Gucci jacket

Available: http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/fashion/what-to-wear/news/g36699/best-bomber-jackets/

Accessed: 02/03/17

Figure 3: Gucci s/s 2016

Available:http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwpe16-spring-summer-2016-trend-sleepwear/22808

Accessed: 02/03/17

Word count: 543

 

 

Historical Sustainability Analysis

Garment sustainability analysis

For my garment sustainability analysis, I have chosen to look into the impact of how poisonous dyes have effect men and women in the past and from the toxic chemicals that have been used to make in clothing products.

Screen Shot 2017-04-07 at 02.31.24.png

Figure 1: The Arsenic Dress

Clothing in nineteenth-centruty Europe and America was so thoroughly dangerous, its amazing anyone survived. Thats what you might very well take away from fashion victims: The dangerous of dress pass and present, a lavishly illustrated chronicle of ways clothing tried to kill both creators and their customers in the Victorian era, largely in the U.K., France and Northern America. The Toxic dyes, cosmetics laden with lead, and flammable fabrics, pairing beautiful examples of popular styles with sometimes gruesome illustrations of the injuries they might’ve inflicted. “Fashion causes literal,Physical harm to the bodies of its wearers and its makers and has done so for centuries’, for instance: A lovely emerald green used in fabrics and popular floral headdresses alike was made, in part, of arsenic. This would become an obsession on the part of the victorian media. The following is excerpted from fashion victims. 

Screen Shot 2017-04-07 at 02.43.32.png

Figure 2: illustration In punch magazine

A cartoon titled “The Arsenic Waltz” alludes to the use of arsenic in dresses and artificial flowers. The illustration appeared in punch, a British humor magazine, a few months after a worker in the fashion industry died of arsenic poisoning.  It was that bad that a young girl Matilda Scheurer, a 19-year-old artificial flower maker, died of “accidental” poisoning, from the green dress and it causing her to vomited green waters; and the whites of her eyes had turned green and died it was said the brilliant hue of this green pigment, which was used to colour dresses and hair ornaments, was achieved by mixing copper and highly toxic arsenic trioxide or “white arsenic” as it was known. The press described her death in grisly detail, and by all accounts, Scheurer’s final illness was horrible.

Since the discovery of the arsenic dress and all the chemicals used to make it there hasn’t been an incident regarding anything due to all the testing and dye’s (e.g.vegetable dye) go on to make prevent it ever happening again. There are also companies such as Greenpeace who continue to protest the use of dyes which contain poisonous toxins. For example on the website there are easy to access news articles highlighting the dangers of dyes in children’s clothes and the use of them by worldwide respected brands such as Burberry. There are also ways in which the public can take action to ensure that the use of these dyes are eliminated and swapped for environmentally friendly alternatives.

 

References 

The Arsenic Century: How Victorian Britain Was Poisoned at Home, Work, and Play

Paperback edition by James C. Whorton in English (14 Jul 2011)

history http://pictorial.jezebel.com/the-arsenic-dress-how-poisonous-green-pigments-terrori-1738374597

MULHOLLAND, R (2013). [Online] Victoria and Albert Museum, London, Available from http://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/conservation-blog/weeks-post-free-arsenic

Accessed: 26/02/17

MOSEBY.(2007) Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, Volume 56, Issue 2 [Online] Science Direct, Available at: www.sciencedirect.com/science/journal/01909622/56/2

GLIENICKE, A.(2014)In pictures: the toxic truth of your children’s clothes [Online] Greenpeace, Available at : http://www.greenpeace.org.uk/blog/toxics/pictures-toxic-truth-your-childrens-clothes-20140116

Accessed: 26/02/17

Image References 

Figure 1: The Arsenic Dress

Available:history http://pictorial.jezebel.com/the-arsenic-dress-how-poisonous-green-pigments-terrori-1738374597

Accessed: 26/02/17

Figure 2: illustration In punch magazine

Available:history http://pictorial.jezebel.com/the-arsenic-dress-how-poisonous-green-pigments-terrori-1738374597

Accessed: 26/02/17

 

Word count: 449

Garment

Burberry Garment

On the 24th February I went to the Burberry makers house exhibition with my mum to view the new s/s17 collection, when I was their I saw so many amazing garments but the one that stood out to me the most was the crystal cape so I chose to study that garment  anyways, Burberry designed a celebration of the new collection and the iconic artist who inspired it. Henry Moore: Inspiration & Process included some of Moore’s most famous sculptures alongside his working models and maquettes. The exhibition provided an opportunity to explore the iconic British artist’s work and methods outside of the Henry Moore Studios & Gardens, home of the Henry Moore Foundation, Where it was held at makers house in 1 Manette St, Soho, London W1D 4AT. On the other hand the cape reimagined was on display until 27th February 2017. The travelling exhibition will visit cities including Paris, Tokyo and Los Angeles.

FullSizeRender.jpg

Figure 1 : The collection

The reason why I’ve chose this garment to speak about was how it looked and how it represents Burberry as a brand and how it relates to brand by doing a collection thats defining the brand and garments. I would say that the target market for this collection/garment would range from 20-30 because its elegant, urban and classy and could been worn in many different styles (.eg. on a catwalk and award ceremony), This garment was created using unique constructions, each design is handmade and Each one is a unique collector’s piece incorporating unexpected materials and intricate techniques, all of theses garments were made in the uk.

FullSizeRender.jpg

Figure 2 : Crystal Cape

I can see this garment being sold and being advertised on a catwalk, or on the other hand someone famous might had brought this garment or maybe been seen in vogue magazine. I believe that if this garment was meant to be sold it would be completely tailed and made and created in a different style and look for the high street brands being able to sell this in their store. Because most things that are on the catwalk get tweaked a bit for the high street customers/stores, it’s never the same as the original copy. I don’t really believe that this would need advertisement because once you see it in a magazine or previous photos from a catwalk it would naturally drag people attention to this garment/collection, but then on the other hand you could say just by it being on a catwalk, magazine and a famous person wearing it that its a kind of advertisement.

Also a symbol of protection since the 1880s, the Burberry cape finds a new expression at our London atelier. As you can see Burberry has created the couture cape done previously but they’ve brought it back and modernised, but there’s pictures placed in  A collector’s edition book capturing our 78 unique designs. Theres also video articles bof – business of fashion and the guardian and edited book 100 Contemporary Fashion Designers about couture designers.

Screen Shot 2017-03-08 at 23.52.06.png

Figure 3: THE CAPE REIMAGINED

References 

Burberry:https://show.burberry.com/uk/feb-2017/collection-stories/capes/

Article:https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/feb/20/burberry-joins-forces-with-henry-moore-as-label-becomes-a-creative-force

Accessed: 24/02/17

Book: THE CAPE REIMAGINED

Video Article:https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/video/video-tims-take-burberry-autumnwinter-2017

Edited Book: 100 Contemporary Fashion Designers – Hardcover – 25 Nov 2009 by Terry Jones (Author)

Accessed: 24/02/17

Image References 

Figure 1: The collection – ( All these pictures where taken when I visited Burberry makers house )

Accessed: 24/02/17

Figure 2: Crystal cape

Accessed: 24/02/17

Figure 3: THE CAPE REIMAGINED

Accessed: 24/02/17

Word count: 509

Global Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week, held in February and September of each year, is a semi-annual series of events (generally lasting 7–9 days) when international fashion collections are shown to buyers, the press and the general public. The council of fashion designers America (CFDA) created the modern notion of a centralized “New York Fashion Week” in 1993, although cities like London were already using their city’s name in conjunction with the words “fashion week” in the 1980s. NYFW is based on a much older series of events called “Press Week,” founded in 1942.

It has consisted of numerous branded events, such as Olympus Fashion Week New York, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and MADE Fashion Week, and many independent fashion productions around town. Producers of New York Fashion Week include IMG and FTL Moda, in conjunction with Fashion Week Online. A centralized calendar of citywide events (including those affiliated with WME/IMG) is kept by the CFDA,and was acquired from calendar founder Ruth Finley.The economic impact of New York Fashion Week is estimated at $887 million.

Screen Shot 2017-04-07 at 01.20.13.png

 Figure 1: Yeezy s/s collection 2017

The first New York Fashion Week was created in 1943 by Eleanor Lambert, press director of the American fashion industry’s first promotional organization, the New York Dress Institute. The event, the world’s first organized fashion week, was called “Press Week”, It was also meant to showcase American designers for fashion journalists, who had neglected U.S. fashion innovations. Press Week was a success, and fashion magazines like  vogue, which were normally filled with French designs, increasingly featured American fashion.

Screen Shot 2017-04-07 at 01.25.19.png

Figure 2: Timeline of fashion weeks

Formafantasma Uses Terracotta And PVC To Create “deconstructed Architecture” For Sportmax Catwalk,Formafantasma founders Simone Farresin and Andrea Trimarchi, who are much better identified for their experiments with components like lava and animal skins, had been asked by the brand to style the set just months ahead of the display. They join the likes of AMO, Studio Job and Pernilla Ohrstedt, who have all previously developed catwalks for vogue displays.

Screen Shot 2017-04-07 at 01.59.19.png

Figure 3: Formafantasma s/s sportmax catwalk 2016

References 

journalist:Bradford, Julie (2014). fashion journalism. Routledge. p. 129.

History: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week

Accessed: 06/02/17

Book:New York Fashion Week: The Designers, the models, the fashions of the Bryant park era – Author Eila Mell

Catwalk:http://decor10blog.com/design-decorate/decorating-ideas/formafantasma-uses-terracotta-and-pvc-to-create-deconstructed-architecture-for-sportmax-catwalk.html

Accessed: 06/02/17

History:http://newyorkfashionweeklive.com/history-of-new-york-fashion-week

Accessed: 06/02/17

Image References 

Figure 1: yeezy s/s collection 2017

Available:http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/kanye-west-adidas-originals

Accessed: 06/02/17

Figure 2: Fashion Week TimeLine

Available:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week

Accessed: 06/02/17

Figure 3: Formafantasma s/s sportmax catwalk 2016

Available:http://decor10blog.com/design-decorate/decorating-ideas/formafantasma-uses-terracotta-and-pvc-to-create-deconstructed-architecture-for-sportmax-catwalk.html

Accessed: 06/02/17

Word count: 345

About Me

My name is Reme, and I am currently a student at De Montfort University studying Fashion buying with Design. For as long as I can remember, I have always had an eye for fashion and designing  and experimenting with different materials. I can remember as a child visiting fashion shows and continuously designing and dressing myself up and my dolls. I was particularly enthralled by the way that your style can speak for itself.

I currently run a blog, style and model on Instagram ‘Raellarose’, where I post daily with different styles/outfits and fashion tips and products that other brands may send me to help them promote their brand. I like to think that people can view my Instagram and use it to inspire them. Also coming from a big city like london and seeing everyone with their style and expressing themselves through fashion; and following a top blogger sherlinanym and how she’s come up in the fashion industry it really inspired me to blog about fashion. Due to my passion for fashion and shopping, I decided it would be a great to come university to study Fashion Buying with Design as it is where my passion lies.

Screen Shot 2017-04-06 at 22.36.20.png

Figure 1: My Instagram page

I also have a lot of inspiration from a variety of designers and culture’s, namely Moshino, a fashion designer who specialises in design. Moschino’s designs are unique and contain an urban style with their main focus being on 90’s look with vibrant colours. However, the patterns/colours themselves are intriguing because of the fact that they were inspired by Jeremy scott style, particularly the pop culture. Jeremy Scott combined the distinctive decorative elements of pop culture such as the looney toons, teddy bear and graffiti, in order to create his own references to the street culture of the time in the 90’s. This way of sourcing and combining ideas allows a diverse range of influences to be explored, and makes his work appear innovative.

Screen Shot 2017-04-06 at 23.16.11.png

Figure 2: Jeremy Scott creation

Other designers/books that inspire me, include African fashion. This influence me to use vibrant colours/patterns which are my favourite materials to work with, Jekkah is one of the best African inspired clothing shops I’ve gone to in Camden to see all the different designs and patters/colours.’Fashion Africa’: I’ve read in depth with an aim to celebrate the fashion scene in Africa and the Diaspora through images, interviews, beautiful modern illustrations and critical analysis on sourcing, production as well as an ethical perspective. Screen Shot 2017-04-06 at 23.49.27.png

Figure 3:Fashion africa

References 

Instagram:https://www.instagram.com/raellarose/

Accessed: 30/01/17

Moschino:http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwah2016-from-barbie-to-looney-tunes-jeremy-scotts-pop-culture-inspiration-for-moschino/25990#les-looney-tunes-teddy-bears-et-graffitis

Moschino Hardcover Book:8 Oct 2001 by Mariuccia Casadio (Author), Luca Stoppini(Author)

Accessed: 30/01/17

Fashion Africa Book:Jacqueline Shaw is the founder of AfricaFashionGuide (AFG) – Launched in 2011

Pattern/Artonline:http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/art/practicalities/elementsofart5.shtml

Accessed: 30/01/17

Image References 

Figure 1: My Instagram Page

Available:https://www.instagram.com/raellarose/

Accessed: 30/01/17

Figure 2: Jeremy Scott creation

Available from:http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwah2016-from-barbie-to-looney-tunes-jeremy-scotts-pop-culture-inspiration-for-moschino/25990#les-looney-tunes-teddy-bears-et-graffitis

Accessed: 30/01/17

Figure 3: Fashion Africa Book

Available from:Jacqueline Shaw is the founder of AfricaFashionGuide (AFG) – Launched in 2011

Accessed on: 30/01/17

Word Count: 418